How was the car?

A Land Rover Discovery Sport 2015 (affectionately known as Disco) wasn’t really the prime choice for some elements of the journey, but it proved resilient in some tough environments!  We had the car serviced by Land Rover specialists in Russia, Georgia and the UK which meant Disco purred happily for most of the 50,000kms we covered.

We had two flat tyres - in Mongolia and Iran - both quickly fixed with our ARB tyre repair kit and portable air compressor. After rough roads in Mongolia and Central Asia a damaged front suspension cuff required replacement and we changed-out three worn tyres (we carried two spare wheels). The Rival underbody armour fitted prior to departure resisted some heavy blows, but countless smaller rock strikes caused a few holes in the standard plastic underbody plates which we’ll replace at some point. High-sulphur diesel in Iran and Central Asia meant we had to unblock the Diesel Particulate Filter sensor twice. 

Jon organised some Disco modifications for our journey. This included lifting the suspension to allow extra clearance off-road, installing wider tyres, and the aforementioned aluminium under body armour to protect the chassis. As well as an LED light bar to help navigation at night in the countryside we had a roof rack to carry an additional spare wheel, two 20L jerry cans which meant we could travel around 1000kms before refuelling, a 15L water carrier, a side light for camping, recovery boards, a small shovel, an ARB awning with inbuilt lighting, and a picnic table. 

Prior to departing the UK we made various modifications to the emissions system and ECU to optimise Disco’s performance with low-quality diesel and at high altitude - these changes based on our experience in the Pamir mountains and with a view to driving conditions in the mountains and jungles of South America.

We took various spare car parts – filters etc, all of which Jon is comfortable to install. A Mr Funnel fuel pre-filter was employed to help clean the fuel in some areas, such as in Tajikistan where most diesel came from aging tanks and open buckets. 

Although something like a Toyota Land Cruiser, Land Rover Defender or Mercedes Benz G-Wagen equipped with a low-range transfer case tend to be the overlanding cars of choice, Disco’s terrain modes coped fantastically in technical conditions. Realistically, 80% of a circumnavigation is on paved roads and on these the Disco travels along more comfortably, safely and uses considerably less fuel than a heavier vehicle.

Diesel was readily available with the exception of Iran (due to fuel rationing) and Uzbekistan (due to limited availability) but with a maximum range of nearly 1000kms we never depleted the tank.

How were you able to drive your own car around the world?

Disco is a Right Hand Drive (RHD) and apart from the UK and Ireland all 24 countries were Left Hand Drive. Jon got used to this quickly – particularly starting in Russia where many cars are imported from Japan and are RHD anyway.  Jon driving on the wrong side of the road did mean I felt a little vulnerable at times in the middle of the road, and I’d often have to lean out to assist him in seeing to overtake sometimes he’d pull out without checking and I’d screech as I’d see another car in our blind spot or hurtling towards us. Anyway no bingles experienced on the entire trip.

Having an unusual car and the global recognition of the Land Rover brand was a great conversation starter, and together with the world map decal on the side of the car meant we were approached on numerous occasions for friendly enquiries and countless photos. Financially, taking our own car was also cheaper and more convenient than hiring cars in each country.

Shipping cars is very common and it’s not unlike sending a parcel via FedEx. Drop car at the shippers, complete the paperwork and you can track its location on the interweb. Your shipper will line you up with a Broker at the other end to oversee the customs paperwork and collection. Brent from Bikes Abroad in Australia helped us from Sydney to Vladivostok via a Container, Autoshippers International got us from Southampton to New York via Roll on Roll Off (RORO) and West Coast Shipping got us from San Francisco to Sydney via a shared Container.  We purchased one insurance policy to cover the car and contents for all legs. Each leg took about three weeks for Disco to sail the high seas.

Importing a car temporarily into a country is also easy and follows a similar process in most countries. At each border you need your registration paper proving you own the car, and complete a Temporary Import Permit (TIP) to state you are not intending to sell the car. It’s usually valid for 12 months or the length of your visa and is free. Some countries still use a Carnet de Passage, like a passport for the car which needs to be purchased in your home country but it seems to be being phased out.

A TIP is not required for Europe, most require your car registration document and passports and you can drive through the booth, with some requiring an additional vignette at the border – a payment for using the roads. We had all sorts of fun buying a Toll Pass for use in Turkey. It’s a e-sticker easily purchased at a Post Office and topped up online for use on motorways. The Post Office happened to be next to the Police Station, parking the car attracted the attention of the law enforcement chaps so I asked where we should place the sticker – the involvement of six of them and a number of group photos finally concluded the sticker should be placed under the rear view mirror.

Did you have any scary moments?

There were some vertiginous drops to the side of a number of roads upon which we travelled and I do not like heights – no road barriers, why would you?, a pretty large rock fell into the road that only narrowly missed our windscreen in Tajikistan and a random cow careered straight at us at speed from the verge in Mongolia – both car and cow left unharmed although Disco was covered in cow slobber and we’d only just cleaned him.  Apart from that only two moments spring to mind:

In Iran we were stopped by a local armed militia man at a provincial checkpoint who misunderstood the validity of our visa and threatened to arrest us. Having a local guide helped his eventual compromise and we had to go to the nearest immigration office to extend our visa. The office confirmed our visa was fine and we had three weeks remaining as we thought. It was a little nerve wracking given another British/Australian couple had been imprisoned arbitrarily some months earlier.

A road closure in Mongolia sent us on a 100km off road detour through remote countryside, fields, riverbeds and mountains. We had no signal and our GPS had no roads from which to navigate so we used a compass and online iPad back up map. By midnight, with no street lights or signs of civilisation we were running out of fuel and patience. We eventually reached our destination via a sheep track that traversed over a 2500m mountain. I’ve never had the feeling of being in the middle of nowhere and when you’re hungry and it’s pitch black it’s even more scary. Especially for the sheep who didn’t anticipate their slumber disturbed by us driving through their bedroom.

How did you stay safe?

Planning and common sense were important, thankfully my husband has worked in Risk and is a dab hand at risk mitigation strategies and anyone who knows us well knows we are pretty meticulous in everything we do.

We took out a global search and rescue and medevac policy with GEOS. General Travel Insurance policies are difficult to find for trips longer than 90 days so we opted for a Premium Policy with World Nomads for additional peace of mind.

It was very cost prohibitive to insure Disco on a fully comprehensive basis so we didn’t. Our valuables were insured under our Travel Insurance and we easily purchased Third Party insurance at each country border for very reasonable amounts.

We didn’t take any valuables such as jewellery and lockable drawers in Disco’s boot provided additional security for cameras and laptops. Disco didn’t have visible items in the back seats so was less of a target for opportunistic theft. We endeavoured to find parking with CCTV or 24/7 security as much as we could, and achieved this most of the time. 

As well as a Garmin dash cam and GPS we each carried a personal safety device. Our Garmin InReach Explorer is a Satellite Communicator that had maps loaded and recorded our latest location every ten minutes. Our family and friends could monitor our location in real time via our website, but we could send and receive text messages without network access and an SOS request for Search and Rescue. Jon has always carried this device with him if he’s on his motorbike.

In case we got separated I also carried a small ACR ResQLink Personal Locator Beacon (PLB) with the ability to alert Search and Rescue. 

We had two-way radios in case we joined a convoy of cars for safety reasons or needed to talk to nearby Search and Rescue to help find us. Probably be more use in Australia and I think Jon just bought them for the novelty of playing around with them and practicing his Alpha, Bravo, Charlies.

The Smart Traveller website is an excellent resource and I signed up to email alerts when any travel advice changed for the countries on our route. There’s also a number of useful overland websites, Facebook groups and apps such as iOverlander which provide advice and highlight any safety considerations.

To be honest I’m not sure we had any moments when we didn't feel safe, people looked after us wherever we went (apart from the Thrifty car rental team - see later FAQ..).

Any epic planning fails?

Other than being overseas when a global pandemic was declared (!), luckily nothing drastic but a few small doozies.

After a morning spent queuing to apply for a Russian transit visa in the capital of Mongolia we were advised it would take ten days – which meant we couldn’t leave Ulan Bator to explore as you can’t travel without a passport. This would have stuffed up our plans so after some strong negotiation (begging) we got the visas in three days.

We were denied entry into Serbia at the border as our European car insurance didn’t cover the country so had to detour and go straight to Hungary instead.

At each country border you generally complete a Temporary Import Permit (TIP) for the car. It’s usually valid for 12 months or the length of your visa. Russia and most of the Stans form a Eurasian Customs Union so only require one TIP to visit these countries. We realised too late that the TIP was only aligned with the dates of our Russian transit visa and so we wouldn’t be able to leave Krygystan for Tajikistan as the TIP was now out of date. This meant a visit to the Customs Office to update the dates and payment to a mandatory English translator for the exercise. Had we not done this we would have risked being sent back to the Customs Office from the border (several hours drive). 

Did you get ripped off?

We were pulled over multiple times either at standard police checkpoints or randomly, mostly due to sheer curiosity with us driving a right hand and unusual vehicle. This proved uneventful in Russia, Jon managed to shake off two bribe efforts in Kazakhstan, paid a small fine for no known reason in Iran and a perfectly justified $20 speeding fine in Mongolia. Given that my husband has never failed to obtain at least one hefty speeding fine in almost every European country we’ve visited in the past I think we did quite well.

Some travellers don’t appreciate the small ‘fees’ at borders usually for an unclear reason like a ‘quarantine’ or ‘luggage carriage’ where no official receipt is provided, but the amounts are usually small and we figured they probably needed the $5 more than we did.

Ironically the country of my birth was probably the biggest disappointment. Not only was everything very expensive, but we were robbed in broad daylight by Thrifty car rental at Edinburgh Airport. Rented a car when Disco was being fixed and then had a flat tyre in the Scottish Highlands. They sent their approved provider to replace the tyre as they were runflat tyres. A tiny scratch less than 5mm long on the alloy wheel was identified when we returned the car and they charged us about $500. It was so tiny it could not be seen with the naked eye and not sure if it was there when we collected the car. If it was damaged during the wheel change then it was their own provider that caused it. Customer service was completely un-interested and representatives were unbelievably rude and obnoxious. I am still annoyed about it and will never use Thrifty again as long as I live. Meh.

How did you stay connected?

We kept Jon’s Australian number on his phone so that we could be contacted. Optus offers a $50 per month service that allows unlimited international calls/texts and 4GB of data. In each country we would purchase a local SIM for my phone that allowed me data and a local number for making bookings. Telstra allows you to put your Australian number ‘on ice’ for a year without losing it for $70. It also meant I could retain access to What’s App using my Australian number to keep in contact with friends.

We kept family and friends informally dialled in with a daily visual diary on Instagram.

Wifi was available in the majority of places, although some websites like Facebook are blocked in Iran and Turkmenistan. We had a Virtual Private Network (VPN) which offers secure connections and allows one to circumvent some of these restrictions, however one should assume that any electronic/online activity (including the use of VPNs) is monitored. We didn’t tempt fate in areas subject to strict controls but most of the locals use one routinely!

How did you manage access to money?

We took two Visa and two MasterCard Credit Cards as back up for fraud, loss or where some places only accept one provider and not both. We had a fraud (originating in Australia) on our Westpac Credit Card so had to have this card replaced.

We had a Visa Debit account that allowed free international ATM transactions - HSBC Global Everyday Visa which also allows you to move major currencies around - and a Credit Card account that had no international transaction or currency conversion fees on online or overseas purchases - our Latitude 28 Degrees Global Platinum MasterCard is Australian but many countries offer similar options. These accounts saved us a considerable amount in fees. 

We took clean and recent USD notes for use in Iran and Turkmenistan where ATMs do not work for non-residents and credit cards are very rarely accepted. In these countries we used private exchanges to change USD for the local currency as hotels won’t offer a good rate. We were able to withdraw USD over the counter from banks and some ATMs in Uzbekistan before travelling to Turkmenistan.

We found our cards didn’t work in Chinese ATMs and some credit card terminals, but we had taken some CNY in cash and exchanged some USD to cover the shortfall. In Uzbekistan we had several issues with ATMs that were either empty, had long queues for the limited cash available or wouldn’t accept any of our cards. Kapital Bank was always good for Visa cards and we had no issues in other countries, albeit the odd credit card terminal decline that would then work on the second go or with a second card.

How complicated were visas?

Australians are so lucky that most countries allow us to stay visa free for up to 30 to 90 days, sometimes more. Smart Traveller outlines requirements for Australians visiting each country. Obviously this was the situation before COVID-19. 

We needed to pre-apply for visas for Russia, Mongolia, Iran and the United States. 

China - We had a Transit Without Visa which allows you to stay up to six days if you can prove you are exiting on to a third country (not the country you entered from). You don’t need to apply beforehand as you receive at the Chinese airport but there are different lengths of stay permitted depending on the city. We then flew onto Russia after our visit.

Mongolia - We sent the application form and passports to the Mongolian Embassy in Canberra and it was processed in a few days.

Russia - Requires evidence that you have a visa for the countries to which you intend to exit from Russia, so we had to apply for the Mongolia visa first. You need to provide a lot of information via the online application form as well as a detailed itinerary but there’s a step by step guide to show you. You pay a small fee to a Russian travel agency to provide a Letter Of Invitation (LOI) then take a print out of the form, LOI and passport (with any necessary visas) to the Russian Embassy representative office in Sydney or Canberra. They send this to the Russian Embassy in Canberra which takes up to ten days. 

We needed a second transit visa for Russia so we applied at the Russian Embassy in Mongolia (filling in that detailed form again) and received within three days. Russia requires you to be registered with authorities within seven days of arrival, the hotel will do this for you and provide you with a registration slip you need to carry with your passport.

Iran - You need to send an easy application form and fee but not your passport to the Iranian Embassy in Canberra. You can do this from overseas then you receive an electronic visa to print and show at the Iranian border.

United States – Our visit to Iran meant we were no longer eligible for their Visa Waiver Program. We had to make an appointment in advance at the US Embassy in London where we were interviewed regarding our intentions and financial ability to travel and you need a US resident to vouch for you. The Embassy was busy and the process took several hours. We were told at the end that our tourist visa would likely be granted, we left our passports for processing and they were couriered to us about a week later.

Uzbekistan - Although no visa is needed you are required to be registered wherever you stay and collect a series of tiny registration slips. Ours were checked at the border when we left to ensure the number of slips matched the number of nights we had stayed and I was also unable to withdraw cash over the counter at the bank without my previous night’s registration paper. I’ve heard the process is soon to be abandoned

Turkmenistan - You can’t travel for too many days without a guide or you can apply for a transit visa to dash through unaccompanied. We read that successful receipt of transit visas can be hit or miss so we paid for a 7 day guide and the Travel Agency organised our visas. 

Azerbaijan, Turkey and Tajikistan - Require an eVisa you apply online a few days prior, pay by credit card and receive the eVisa almost immediately.

Any tips for crossing borders?

We were processed through something like 19 land borders, several in areas of high security sensitivity. Generally speaking, getting out is fine if you entered correctly - getting in is in every sense where problems emerge. There are a few basic processes that need to occur at every crossing: your identity and right of entry is confirmed, then the permission for the vehicle to enter and be operated within the country is confirmed, and finally you’re confirmed to NOT be carrying contraband or regulated goods. In many countries permission to operate the vehicle is dependent on holding third-party insurance and/or the pre-payment of road taxes. In some places these arrangements must be made in advance via the internet, or immediately upon entering the country.

• Know your crossing: Not every crossing between two countries is the same. In fact, generally no two are the same. Crossings mostly used by local traffic will either be super fast (low wait times) or super slow (unfamiliar dealing with foreigners and/or foreign vehicles). Crossings preferred by cross border truckers will have peak and low periods and typically proficient but binary personnel - piss them off and they’ll simply turn you around. iOverlander is a great source to understand and select a suitable crossing and the best time to cross.

• Keep your cool and be a good guest: Border personnel have a relentless, difficult and sometimes dangerous responsibility ‘manning the parapet’ for their country and community. It is staggering to see how little respect they are sometimes shown by punters. It’s crucial to hear and engage the person, not just the badge. Australian flags on Disco, kangaroo business cards and instagram can all be harnessed to build rapport and provide a context for your crossing that will see you through in a fast and friendly fashion.

• For chrissakes keep your nose clean: Avoid carrying alcohol in the vehicle and no drugs and/or weapons. Make sure there’s no sketchy content on your camera, phone or devices. Point out your camera equipment, drone and two-way and/or satellite radios as in security-conscious areas these are no-nos. Be conscious of your online persona - it may be prudent to keep your critique of the regime off the interwebs or at least save it for later.

• Don’t let truck drivers take the mickey: Heavy haulers cross borders all the time and often encounter day-long waits. They will push you to the end of the queue unless you step up and assert yourself. Again the best solution is to engage with the border agent in question directly - they’re likely to be even more over the pushy drivers than you are.

What’s next for the global gregors?

COVID-19 has thrown global travel into uncertainty and we feel fortunate to have completed the trip when we did and escaped unscathed so far. Our thoughts are with all of the people who showed us such tremendous hospitality and that they together with the millions of others affected are able to recover from the huge impact this will have on so many. 

Australia can offer many fantastic adventures on our doorstep for now. In the future we’d love to return for a few months to complete our Central and South American segments, maybe on Jon’s motorbike which is logistically easier and cheaper. Other regions on our wish list would be Africa and Russia. Watch this space.

Thank you for joining us on our journey. If you have any other questions or would like help planning a similar trip please feel free to contact us at globalgregors@icloud.com. You can follow our ongoing travels on Instagram via @globalgregors.