A former Soviet republic, Turkmenistan was constituted as an independent state in 1991. The population is ~80% Turkmen, with the remaining 20% a diverse mix of ethnicities found across Central Asia (Uzbeks, Kazakhs, Russians) along with emigre populations (Ukrainians, Azerbaijani, Armenians) and unique local populations of a non-Turkic origin (Balochi, Nohurli).
The Turkmen historically identify to one of five major tribes, with the most prominent being the Teke of Akhal province, who give their name to the heritage horse breed from this area, the Akhal-Teke.
Once the capital of the Parthian empire, Turkmenistan features some historic urbanisations not the least of which is the ancient city of Margiana/Merv and the Bronze Age metropolis of Gonur Depe, a contemporaneous rival to Babylon.
These days however the capital is the rather extraordinary city of Ashgabat, a grandiose construction of white marble, constructed after the original city was literally levelled by a devastating 1948 earthquake.
Since 1991, two presidents fuelled by natural gas wealth have invested Ashgabat with a singular vision of state prestige which relies on heavy use of symbolism. On a large scale, examples include a Finance Ministry crowned with a giant coin; a Health Ministry shaped like a hooded cobra (referencing the Caduceus, obviously) and an airport terminal formed like a bird.
Icons (carpet/cap guls) representing the five tribes are recurring, as is the Islamic Rub el-Hizb pictured above and the heraldic eagle below. Images of the president are ubiquitous, often depicting his commitment to tradition and showcasing his many proficiencies and paternalistic care for the people of Turkmenistan. Travelling to more remote communities it’s hard not to feel that populations of origin other than the five tribes may feel under-represented in all of this imagery.
Five heads for five tribes.
Media and internet access is strictly regulated. While we were required to lodge an itinerary, after being registered in the capital we were free to move around without escort.
As only clean, white cars are permitted into Ashgabat Disco stood out in a big way and we found ourselves welcomed wherever we travelled.
Many public buildings are constructed in what architects would describe as a stripped neoclassical style, which will be familiar as it’s a look that totalitarian regimes and conservative governments have run with for more than a century. The net affect is rather surreal, and for me perhaps a little menacing due to the historical antecedents.
Notwithstanding, we agreed that Ashgabat is perhaps the most remarkable city we’ve visited.
It is not easy to secure a Turkmenistan visa invitation and it’s even rarer to be travelling through with an Australian-plated car, let alone on diesel provided at ~20c/litre… and it was a pleasure to be accompanied by a couple of great guides.
We’re grateful for the welcome and warm hospitality extended to us, what an experience.
Oh, and for the eight gates read here. It’s possible to think of these as attributes:
Be punctual (in your daily obligations)
Defend your beliefs
Be charitable
Demonstrate restraint
Commit to a spiritual journey
Be forgiving
Have faith
Act righteously/ethically
Find a Turkmenistan picture gallery here.